Turtle & Shark

On Wednesday we saw six turtles. Last Saturday we saw some 20 sharks. But at 5:00 am this morning we drove out to Vaitogi to see if some Samoan guys could summon one small turtle and a shark from the ocean through a Samoan chant.


Two words could probably describe this event--"snipe hunt."


The legend goes that a long time ago, a young husband on Upolu was selected as the guest of honor at a cannibalistic feast to be given by King Malietoa Faiga. He chose to decline the invitation (for good reason). The man and his wife set out in a canoe, but while attempting to escape there was a storm and they were blown to Tutuila, where they were put up by Letuli, the mayor of Ili'ili.


When the practice of cannibalism fell into disfavor, Letuli offered them a free trip home, but they refused. Instead, as repayment for Letuli's kindness, they jumped into the sea (?!). The husband became a shark and his wife a turtle. The husband told the chief that any time a gathering of children sang from the shore at Vaitogi, a turtle and a shark would appear to greet them.


So we went out to the rugged cliffs of Vaitogi to see the turtle and shark. Some children were supposed to sing the chant for us, but our guide forgot until the very last minute. So, no children. Instead, she rounded up a few Samoan guys. Our guide explained that if we saw the turtle and shark, we should not point at them or else they will swim away. But if you saw the turtle and shark, how were you supposed to show everyone where it was?


Anyway, we walked out to the cliff and waited as these guys kept repeating the chant. The water was extremely rough. If I hadn't been coming to see the turtle and shark, I would have never thought to stand out on the cliffs where we were. What turtle and shark would be crazy enough to swim in this water?

You tell me. Watch this video and tell me if a teeny turtle or a shark would swim in this water (and please forgive my pessimism).




Waves kept crashing over us as we watched. We were all just sopping wet. Suddenly, with more wisdom than the rest of us, Jaydn turned to Jessi and said, "mom, I'm cold. I've already seen turtles and sharks; I don't need to see these ones." So Jessi and Jaydn walked back to the beach to collect shells.

While the rest of us stayed, determined to the end to see the animal couple.


Obviously frustrated, the Samoan guys doing the chant started singing Samoan top 40 songs instead. As you might expect, this did not work either.


Finally, our guide turned to us and said, "I've never actually been out here before, because I didn't think it was real." Well if our guide doesn't even believe the turtle and shark will come out, I started to wonder if the chanters did, either. They too eventually turned to us and said, "it's probably because we don't have very good voices." I thought, "the children!! What about the children's choir???"


Our guide explained that about three years ago, a palagi offered to pay $100 to a Samoan man who could bring the turtle and shark to the surface. After trying for a long time, the Samoan man couldn't do it. Obviously frustrated, the palagi jumped into the ocean and drowned.


I guess he thought maybe he'd like to try becoming a shark.


After about an hour of this, I was beginning to think that maybe he had the right idea.


Reality was beginning to settle in -- I think Mrs. Turtle and Mr. Shark overslept with our children's choir.


Oh well. After feeling wet, cold and seriously duped, I was ready to go back home.


Like I've said, it's amazing the things palagis do for excitement on this island.